Published: by Absolutely Recipes, in the recipes category.
For the Marinade:
1 whole head garlic, separated into individual unpeeled cloves
2 TBSPs (30ml) lard or vegetable oil
1/4 cup achiote (annatto) seeds (1 1/2 ounces; 40g)
2 TBSPs (about 6g) Mexican oregano
3 whole cloves
1 (3-inch) Ceylon cinnamon stick, or a 1 1/2-inch piece of cassia cinnamon (see note)
2 TBSPs (about 8g) whole black peppercorns
1 TBSP (about 4g) whole cumin seed
1 TBSP (about 4g) whole allspice berries
3/4 cup (175ml) bitter (Seville) orange juice, or 1/4 cup (60ml) each lime, orange, and grapefruit juice
1/4 cup (60ml) white vinegar
1 TBSP (15ml) soy sauce
Kosher salt
For the Pork:
4 pounds (18kg) boneless pork shoulder or 6 pounds (27kg) bone-in pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch-thick slabs
6 to 8 banana leaves (see note)
2 Roma tomatoes, sliced
1 red or green bell pepper, sliced
1 white onion, sliced
12 bay leaves
To Serve:
Warm corn tortillas
Yucatán-style pickled onions and salsa
Thread garlic cloves onto a metal skewer and grill directly over the flame of a gas grill until completely blackened on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes.
Alternatively, toss in a dry skillet over high heat until blackened.
Peel blackened skins when cool enough to handle.
Heat oil or lard in a skillet over medium heat until shimmering.
Add achiote, oregano, cloves, cinnamon, black peppercorns, cumin, and allspice and cook, tossing and stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Transfer to a blender along with peeled garlic, bitter-orange juice, vinegar, soy sauce, and a big pinch of salt.
Blend until smooth.
Season to taste with more salt.
It should be quite salty and have a consistency like ketchup.
If too thick, thin it with water until it flows slowly.
Pour marinade over meat and rub it in with your hands.
Cover, refrigerate, and let it rest at least 1 hour and up to overnight.
Lay out 2 to 3 overlapping banana leaves on a work surface.
Place 1 piece of pork in the center and layer with some of the tomatoes, bell pepper, onion, and bay leaves.
Form a tight parcel by folding the bottom side up and the top side down, then rolling in the sides.
Secure parcel with kitchen twine and transfer pork to an oven-safe baking sheet or disposable aluminum baking tray.
Repeat with remaining pork and banana leaves.
Light 3/4 chimney full of charcoal.
When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange coals on one side of charcoal grate.
Set cooking grate in place, cover grill, and allow to preheat for 5 minutes.
Alternatively, set half the burners on a gas grill to medium-high, cover, and preheat for 10 minutes.
Place a few large hardwood chunks on coals (no need to soak).
Place aluminum tray or baking sheet on the side opposite the fire and close lid.
Smoke pork, aiming for a temperature between 250 and 300 degrees inside the chamber the whole time, until a metal skewer inserted into pork shows no resistance, 4 to 5 hours total.
(Adjust heat by adding coals and/or adjusting the air vents.
) Add extra wood chunks to coals once per hour.
Remove pork from grill and transfer parcels to a deep platter or shallow bowl.
Unwrap banana leaves, shred pork with two forks, stir it into drippings, stuff it into tortillas with pickled red onions and salsa, and serve immediately.
Special equipment
Metal skewer; smoker or grill (charcoal or gas); 1 pound (450g) hardwood chunks, such as hickory, mesquite, or applewood
Notes
Look for "true" or Ceylon cinnamon, which has a thinner, more scroll-like bark and a milder flavor.
It's available in specialty spice shops or in Latin markets.
If unavailable, regular cassia cinnamon can be used in its place (use half the amount called for).
Banana leaves can be found in the freezer section of most Asian supermarkets.
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